German fashion design is often discreet – at least when it comes to its presence on the international market. World-famous labels often conceal German designers. Strenesse bears the imprint of Allgäu native Gabriele Stehle, Escada was founded in 1976 by Wolfgang and Margaretha Ley. Arguably the most famous German couturier, Karl Lagerfeld, works for fashion houses like Chanel and Fendi from Italy and previously also designed for Chloé. Through her brand Jil Sander, Heidemarie Jiline Sander, a Hamburg native, has become better known than Chanel and Armani in the U.S. – at least according to Vogue.

It is difficult to point to a specific German design in fashion matters. Generally, it can be said that German fashion is distinguished by a classic, clear style. German fashion is mostly conceived for everyday wear, with a less sporty emphasis than American (fashion). Purist elements frequently find their ways into the creations of individual German designers. Jil Sander is certainly best known in this regard. It would be more realistic to speak of a melding and internationalization of various fashion aspects. Thus, French, Italian and German collections can scarcely be told apart. The reason for this is surely the career development of young couturiers. Often Germans study abroad or – like Karl Lagerfeld – have found the focus of their lives there. Conversely, international designers – such as Vivienne Westwood – are drawn to Germany. Westwood, who is British, teaches at the Hochschule der Künste (College of the Arts) in Berlin. The German capital is increasingly moving into the industry’s field of vision. Even in the early 19th century, fashion was one of the city’s flourishing businesses. After the Second World War, the Institut für Kleiderindustrie (Institute for Clothing Industry) was founded in the East in 1952; in West Berlin independent designers established themselves. After unification, the fashion sector’s influence grew. Since then, many internationally renowned companies, such as Gucci, Prada, Chanel, Hermes and Versace have taken up residence In Berlin. Since March 1999, the “Berlin Creators’ Week” has been held once a year. However, the big money in fashion continues to be made in the west, in Düsseldorf, through large fashion trade fairs.

Although Germany, unlike countries such as France or Italy, is not a classical fashion country, fashion play a large role and its significance is growing. In addition to fashion designers like Wolfgang Joop, brands such as Boss and Bogner are world famous. Today the country is a leading fashion exporter. The most important export market for German women’s fashion manufacturers is France, which spent about 210 million US-Dollars on textiles in the first ten months of 2001. But for years the Federal Republic has also been a leader in fashion imports. Germany has become a modern fashion nation. The trade fair Collections Premieren Düsseldorf (Collections Premiers Düsseldorf, CPD) is the world’s biggest fashion trade fair. It is held twice a year in the North Rhine-Westphalian capital and presents collections for spring and summer as well as for fall and winter. Parallel to the CPD, the trade fairs CPD Body & Beach for lingerie and beachwear, and the CPD Fabrics (showcasing) new textile developments, are held. In addition to the CPD, the Herrenmode-Woche (Men’s Fashion Week, HMW) in Cologne and the Internationale Modetage (International Fashion Days, IMOTA) in Berlin have been able to establish themselves on the global market.

Internationally Known Brands

Hugo Boss

Hugo Boss was established in 1923 during the Weimar Republic. Originally the company specialized in work clothes; since the 1950s, it has switched to producing suits. Today, it pursues a three-brand strategy: More than 90% of revenues are generated by the elegant core brand Hugo Boss, which appeals to the dynamic, success-oriented man. The newer line Hugo has been around since 1989 and, like Hugo Woman, is geared toward the trendy younger generation. Baldessarini is the fashion house’s up-market men’s line, named for the chairman of the company’s board. In addition to clothing, Hugo Boss, which is headquartered in Metzingen (Baden-Württenmberg), specializes in glasses, timepieces, shoes, accessories, undergarments and perfumes. However, these products are not part of the company’s textile core competence, but are produced as licensed partnerships.

Willy Bogner

Willy and Maria Bogner laid the cornerstone of the company in the 1930s. They began by making leisure- and sportswear. Munich native Willy Bogner was an avid skier. He participated in the 1936 Winter Olympics in (near-by) Garmisch-Partenkirchen. The entire German team wore sportswear of his manufacture. After the Second World War, he and his wife began to export to the U.S. as well – with success. In 1956 the American women’s national Olympic team was also provided with clothing from the Bavarian company. Son Willy Junior has led the company since 1977. To this day, it is a well-known fashion house for sportswear. The German Olympic team continues to be clad in Bogner.

Strenesse

The house’s collections are clear and purist and bear the imprint of Gabriele Strehle. Above all, the designer would like – as she says – to use her collections to underscore personality, not to stand on their own. In 1996, her work in Heidelberg was awarded the textile industry’s Mode Forum Preis (Fashion Forum Prize); one year later she received the Order of Merit of the Bavarian Ministry of Economics. The success went on. In 1998, she was awarded the Federal Cross of Merit. In the same year, she at last also gave her name to the brand: Strenesse Gabriele Strehle. Since 2002 the fashion house has also been concentrating on male customers; the first collection appeared in July.

Designers

Jil Sander

Before the Hamburg native hit it big with her style, she worked as a fashion writer and textile engineer. She made her debut as a designer with her own women’s collection in 1973. Scarcely four years later, she received glowing international reviews for her purist creations. With unbelievable speed, she reached the top of her field: The Japanese fashion magazine High Fashion counts her among the 12 best fashion designers in the world. Vanity Fair has dubbed her the “queen of less” for her unornamented and simple style. She herself describes her collections as “fashion for the woman who dresses avant-garde casual, yet does not want to feel (as though she were) wearing a costume.” With her work, she has done a great service for German fashion, helping it to new, international recognition. In 2000, she sold her company – one of the most profitable in the industry – to Prada.

Wolfgang Joop

Like Jil Sander, the Potsdam-born (in the state of Brandenburg) “Prussian designer“ (New York Times) also began his carrier as an editor. After he was laid off, he worked as a freelance designer. In 1978, at age 33, he made his breakthrough in the fashion industry. Joop presented his own fur collection to the public. In 1982, his first ready-to-wear women’s collection appeared under the name JOOP!. His collections mingle clear lines as well as colorful experiments. Although not exactly provocative, his clothing is still sexy and emphasizes the body. In 1998, he sold 95% of his company, where he nevertheless continues to work as a designer. In addition to fashion, JOOP! puts out perfumes, accessories and cosmetics. His daughter Jette is also extremely successful, concentrating on designing jewelry collections.

Karl Lagerfeld

The Hamburg native is the best known and most extroverted of all the German designers. His family emigrated to Paris when he was 14 years old. He always wanted to devote himself to fashion. He had already won a prize for a wool coat in 1954, when he was 15. Subsequently, he began his career with Pierre Balmain, where he worked until 1957. After several rapid changes among individual designers, he began to work for Chloé in 1959. He remained there until 1978. On the side, he also worked for Fendi and began to establish his own company. In 1975 Lagerfeld, also known as “Kaiser Karl,” brought his first perfume to market. From 1978 to 1982, he worked independently. Two years later, he assumed creative leadership of Chanel. His credo is: make fashion to be worn, not to be (displayed) in a museum. Lagerfeld joins old and new in an unusual way to form a new, never-before-seen style. He speaks German, French, English and Italian fluently. In addition to fashion design, he is also a gifted photographer who presents many of his own creations in the best light. His trademarks are his pony tail and fans with sunglasses. Despite his longtime presence on the international fashion stage, he always succeeds in reinventing himself. Through his slimming regimen he is now able to try out new clothes and styles on himself. When Gianni Versace was asked if Lagerfeld wasn’t more of a Frenchman after so many years in France, he answered: “Absolutely not. He has the German culture. And this is brought out not only in his most beautiful clothes, but also in his most hideous. From him I have learned to risk transgressing conventional laws of fashion.”



The Young Designers

In addition to the known designer greats, who, like Jil Sander, have partially retired from their companies, a new, younger generation of German fashion designers is already raring to go. Names like Markus Lupfer and Anja Gockel are still known only by a small public, but successes in recent years have given the new couturiers growing influence in the market.

Markus Lupfer

Born in 1968 in Kisslegg (state of Baden-Wuerttemberg), Markus Lupfer studied fashion design in Tier before attending the University of Westminster from 1995 to 1997. He was able to sell his graduation collection in Thailand and one year later established his own label. The designer, who lives in London, has long since made his name in the British capital. Since 1999, his designs have been on show at London’s Fashion Week. Critics praise the use of special materials and his eye for detail. His designs captivate with a futuristic look, paired with glaring color components and a mixture of various materials. Lupfer came to fame in his native country when he presented his collection at the CPD. The first shoes, belts, shawls and socks he has designed appeared this spring.

Anja Gockel

She was born in Mainz in 1968. After her Abitur (college entrance examinations) she studied at the Design College in Hamburg. Afterward, she moved to London to study there at St. Martin’s starting in 1993. After graduating, she worked for the “mother of punk,” the “queen of British fashion,” Vivienne Westwood. The British (designer) has been teaching since 1994 at the renown College of the Arts in Berlin. In the meantime, Gockel has established her own label. She wants “to enchant women with the everyday.” Her lines are flowing. Her body-accentuating designs, meant to emphasize the feminine, are especially eye-catching. Most of Gockel’s clothing is ornamented with sequined embroidery, ribbons and trim. Often her garments have extra-long, or even trumpet-shaped sleeves. The waist is to be the focal point.

Sabine Schumacher

The young Düsseldorf designer defines her fashion as “clear forms of the modern classic.” The simple and purist style is meant to underscore the personality of the wearer. Schumacher began her career with training to become a dressmaker; from 1993 to 1995 she studied at the Modeschule (Fashion School) in Düsseldorf. Since 1997, she has been presenting her collections at the CPD; in 2000 her fashion could also be seen at the ready-to-wear shows in Paris. She employs masculine and feminine forms, adores austere elegant dresses devoid of excessive baubles. Functionality is her credo.