"insist" means "to urge." It is used when giving a strong suggestion to someone. Using your example:
"I insist on paying for the dinner" = "I would like to pay for dinner and I strongly urge that you allow me to."
This is the kind of nuance that "insist" gives off.
"Persist," however, is quite different. "Persist" means "to continue." If you were to say:
"I persist in paying for dinner." That would probably imply that the person has payed for dinner on many occasion and continues to do so. "Persist" can also imply that the person or thing that is continuing a particular action is doing so in a very stubborn way. For example:
"He persists in running in the marathon, despite his pain." = "He stubbornly continues to run in the marathon, even though he feels pain."
So, as you can see, you use "insist" when expressing a desire; and persist when you want to express that something is continues.
I hope this helps. Please let me know if you need further clarification.