what does "multi-hyphenate hobbyists"mean? It’s 10 p.m. and the start of the summer season, so De Carvalho shifts into hostess mode, navigating through the rooms, offering up kisses and menu recommendations (the salt cod fritters are excellent), and signaling waiters to refill water glasses. Tozé works the other side of the room. “We never get a vacation,” he says with a fake exasperated sigh, but you can tell that they both love the work. In the far corner, I see a table of people I’d met when I came to Comporta four years ago. They casually wave as if I’m here every Friday night. “Nothing really changes in here,” says João De Vasconcellos, a businessman who also happens to make wine and breed sport horses. (Comporta is packed with multi-hyphenate hobbyists.) “Nothing has really changed in Portugal in 900 years!”