Cartagena de Indias Sitting in a a park, I buy a "tinto" (small coffee) from a street vendor. They carry around hot drinks on a trolley. Anytime you want, you can sit or stop somewhere, look for a coffee vendor and have a nice break. I´m on a bench in the park Centenario. I feel instantly conquered by the relaxed and shirtless atmosphere. This is the Caribe, ladies and gentlemen. Many people are having a walk in the park, some even appear to live in it. People are looking calm. I hang around the second hand street bookshops, almost in a state of euphoria due to the effect of coffee. The seafood market should be there, further ahead, at the gates of the old town. I still remember the oyster and octopuss delicacies sold in there. But the market it´s not there anymore. They have changed its location. Instead of running in search of it I enter the lively streets of the historic center and wonder among the bright coloured buildings, spanish heritage painted with caribean joy. I get consciously lost and that allows me to find myself in San Diego, a neighbourhood I never heard about, next to the old town, part of it but at the same time, clearly independent. You can feel that is a place to live, picturesque and beautiful, more than a stage for the tourists to act. It´s already dark but you can notice the quiet and welcoming atmosphere, the beauty of the one storey houses and their fronts sweetly painted and full of flowers.